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The best way to learn this is by doing it. You don't have to start out doing the pairing. You can let someone else do that, and help out by writing the bout sheets.
After a few weeks of watching how it's done, you'll probably have figured it out well enough to start pairing with some supervision. Soon after that, you'll be pairing on your own.
I have deliberately glossed over the situation of a group with an odd number of competitors. I told you what to do with the odd man in round 1, but after that, I just sort of ignored him and made him go away.
Obviously, in a real tournament, the odd man doesn't just go away, but I didn't want to put the triple whammy on you by adding him to the mix. This stuff is complicated enough as it is.
Not for the Faint Of Heart:
For you purists, and those of you who simply must know:
The person who gets a bye moves to the TOP of the list for the next round and stays there. The guy who is now at the bottom gets the bye.
EXAMPLE
Here's a group of five people. I've paired the first three rounds, presuming that
nobody has two losses after round 2:
| Round 1 | Round 2 | Round 3 |
|---|---|---|
| 4-5 | ||
| 5-1 | 5-4 | |
| 1-2 | 1-5 | 1-3 |
| 2-1 | 2-3 | 2-bye |
| 3-4 | 3-2 | 3-1 |
| 4-3 | 4-bye | |
| 5-bye |
At the left of each dash is the competitor number that you'd see on the chart, at the right is the number you'd enter in the "opponent area". I've physically moved the bye to the top of the list so you can see it in action.
Note that, in round three, back forcing has taken place. (4 meets 5, but since 1 and 2 have already met, 1 is matched against 3).
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